The Edible Birds Nests of China (1841)

Source: The Polynesian. Honolulu: Saturday, May 22, 1841.

Not only in their ordinary form, or acted upon by the culinary art are the mosses employed as food; but one of the most admired luxuries of the table in China is the edible bird’s nest formed from them. A small swallow, called,  from his peculiar instinct in building this sort of habitation,
hirundo esculenta, makes his nest from several of these species; and amongst others, it is said from the Ceylon moss, in the highest and most inaccessible rocks, in deep, damp caves. 

Crauford tells us that none of those accustomed from childhood to the dangers it offers, can pursue the occupation of contacting these nests, for they are only approachable by a perpendicular descent of many hundred feet, by ladders of bamboo and rattan, over a sea rolling violently against the rocks.

When the mouth of the cave is attained, the perilous task of taking the nests must be performed by torch-light, by penetrating into the recesses of the rocks, where the slightest slip would instantly be fatal to the adventurers, who can see nothing below them but the turbulent surf making its way into the chasms of the rocks. 

The high price given for these delicacies is, however, a sufficient inducement for the gatherers to follow “this dreadful trade.” The nests are formed of a mucilaginous substance; they resemble ill concocted fibrous isinglass, and are described as of a white color, inclining to red; their thickness  little more than that of a silver spoon, and the weight from a quarter to half an ounce. When dry, they are brittle and wrinkled, the size nearly that of a goose’s egg 

The qualities of the nest vary according to the situation and extent of the caves in which they are found, and the time at which they are taken. If procured before the eggs have been laid, the nests are of the best kind. If they contain eggs only, they are still valuable. But if the young are in the nest or have just left it they are nearly worthless, being dark-colored, streaked with blood, and intermixed with feathers and dirt. 

After they are procured, they are separated from feathers and dirt, are carefully dried and packed, and are then fit for market. The best sort are sent to Pekin, for the use of the Emperor. The labor bestowed to render them fit for the table is enormous; every feather, every stick, or impurity of any kind, is carefully removed; and then after undergoing many washings and preparations, they are made into a soft, delicious jelly; they are likewise served up in broths and soups; they have the reputation of being nutritious and highly stimulating. 

The extravagant prices given for these nests by the Chinese, render them a most expensive article of diet.-  The sale has become a monopoly of the government in whose dominions they are found. Meyan, in his voyage round the world, states, that the Japanese had long going ago discovered that these costly birds nests are nothing more than softened seaweed, and that they now prepare the substance itself in an artist-like manner.

Dr. Sigmund, on the Ceylon  Moss.